Brazilian hair straightening is a method of straightening of semi-permanent hair done by sealing liquid keratin and preservative solution to hair with hair iron. This technique has many variations and is known by some other names and brands, including Brazilian Blast , Breezilian alignment , Brazilian Keratin Treatment , BKT , and Keratin Cure . This is called Escova Progressiva in Brazil and Alisado brasileiro in Portugal.
Original formulations include formaldehyde H
2 CO or methylene glycol H2C (OH)
2 . Both products are ready interconvert, and coexist in chemical equilibrium, when dissolved in water or body fluids. Since formaldehyde is a known health hazard, its composition has been banned in some countries including Canada and the European Union. It's still done in the United States, despite the rules and has become controversial about the treatment.
Video Brazilian hair straightening
Characteristics
Brazilian hair straightening treatment is intended to remove most or part of the tangled hair and straighten the curls and waves. They can be done on any hair type, either natural or chemically treated (bleached, highlighted, colored, permed, relaxed or straightened beforehand).
The effect usually lasts about three months. Treatment should be repeated every few months to align new hair growth.
Maps Brazilian hair straightening
Process
The application technique is similar to the Japanese Yuko System, in which the hair is heated with a flat iron to bind the product to the hair cuticle.
Depending on the treatment used, customers may have to avoid washing, moistening, pinning or restricting hair in any way (eg by hairpin, ponytail, or headband) for a few moments after application, up to three days.
It is also confused or mistaken for keratina, another hair care.
Formaldehyde controversy
Between 2010 and 2012, there was a dispute between producers and importers of Brazilian hair straightening products on the one hand, and various Federal and State health agencies on the other, on proper labeling and product health warnings. Disputes centered on formaldehyde chemical compounds ( H
2 CO ) and methylene glycol ( H
2 C (OH)
2 ), which is the active ingredient of the process, is responsible for binding keratin to hair. Formaldehyde is a gas which, when dissolved in water (including fluid in the human body), converts in part to methylene glycol. In liquids, the two compounds coexist in a chemical equilibrium.
Regulations on formaldehyde levels
Formaldehyde in the air has long been recognized as a major occupational hazard in many industries; such as those using urea-formaldehyde (UF) adhesives, or UF-based products such as fiberboard, and UFFI spray foam insulation. Rates below 0.05 parts per million (ppm) were found to be positively correlated with eye and nasal irritation. It has also been involved in the development of childhood asthma, and, in 2006, the WHO International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classified it as 'known human carcinogen'.
Because of this concern, since 1976 or earlier, European regulations on cosmetics prohibit products that contain or release formaldehyde. Products containing aldehyde of more than 0.001% in waste products or 0.01% in rinse products are required to explicitly list ingredients in their product labels.
The US Federal Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) establishes a permitted long-term exposure limits (PEL) of 0.75ppm of formaldehyde in the air, and a short-term exposure limit of 2.0ppm.
Safety and health hazards warning
OSHA issues a hazard warning and creates an information site in response to a complaint investigation from hairdressers and hair salon owners about formaldehyde exposure when using hair-finishing products such as Brazilian Blowout (Acai Professional Smoothing Solution, Brazilian Blowout Professional Solution), Brazil Cacau Cadiveu, Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy (Natural Keratin Smoothing Treatment, Express Blow Out, Natural Keratin Smoothing Treatment Blonde), and Marcia Teixeira (Brazilian Keratin Treatment, Extreme De-Frizzing Treatment). OSHA performs air sampling in some salons and finds formaldehyde in the air when hairdressers use hair-finishing products. Some of these products are labeled "free formaldehyde" or do not include formaldehyde on product labels or in Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS). In many cases, where the label does not state that the product has formaldehyde in it, OSHA found that hair salon owners who use the product do not know that a hairdressing product contains or can expose workers to formaldehyde because manufacturers, importers and distributors exclude hazard warnings which is true on the product label or MSDS.
During the Federal OSHA investigation, airborne tests showed formaldehyde at levels above the OSHA limit in salons using Brazilian Acai Thawing Professional Solutions, labeled "free formaldehyde", and Brazilian Cacau Cadiveu. Both OSHA Federal and State have found offenses in some manufacturers, importers and distributors (GIB LLC dba Brazilian Blowout, Keratronics Inc., Pro Leather Solutions, M & M International Inc., Copomon, INOVA Professional). Violations include failing to list formaldehyde as a hazardous substance on MSDS (hazard warning sheet) provided to downstream users (eg, salon owners, stylist), failing to include proper warning warnings on product labels, and failing to list health effects of formaldehyde exposure on MSDS. Labels must include warning materials and warning information and MSDS must inform the user about the chemicals in the product, hazards to workers, and how to use the product safely.
If salon owners decide to use products that may contain or release formaldehyde, they must follow the requirements in OSHA formaldehyde and hazard communication standards to protect workers' safety. Requirements include measures such as testing the salon air during the treatment to determine the level of formaldehyde, providing adequate ventilation and appropriate personal protective equipment for maintenance workers, and training workers on the dangers of formaldehyde. Failure to follow formaldehyde requirements and hazard communication standards has consequences. As part of OSHA enforcement tasks, the agency publishes a quote to five producers, three distributors, two beauty schools and 42 salon owners. Excerpts are excluded for reasons including, but not limited to: failing to communicate the dangers of formaldehyde exposure, formaldehyde levels are above the short-term OSHA 15-minute exposure level, and do not follow the standard OSHA formaldehyde requirements.
California California health and safety investigation
California Attorney General Kamala Harris announces a settlement with GIB LLC dba Brazilian Blowout requiring a $ 600,000 fine payment and amendments to Brazilian Acai Smoothing Blowing Solutions and Professional Solutions for Smoothing Brazil MSDS and Labeling. Under the terms of settlement, GIB is required to:
- Create a complete and accurate safety information sheet on two products that include the cancer warning Proposition 65; distribute this information to buyers of new products that may still have products; and distribute it with all future product deliveries. The revised safety information sheet will be posted on the company's website.
- Affix sticker "CAUTION" to the bottles of both products to inform the formalin gas emission stylists and the need for preventive measures, including adequate ventilation.
- Stop deceptive ads from products as formaldehyde free and safe; engage in substantial corrective advertising, including honest communication to sales staff about product risks; and change many aspects of the Brazilian Blowout website's content.
- Repeat the two products for the total smoke haze (volatile organic compound) chemicals in two laboratories approved by the Department of Justice, and work with DOJ and the Air Resources Board to ensure that the product complies with state air quality regulations.
- Report the presence of formaldehyde in its products to the Safe Cosmetics Program at the Department of Public Health.
- Reveal the refund policy to the consumer before the product is purchased.
- Ask for proof of professional license before selling "usage only" products to the stylist.
Health issues
The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) warned that the Brazilian Explosion is harmful to the health of those who use it and the hairdressers who apply it.
Concerns about the presence of formaldehyde in various hair smoothening products at significant concentrations centered whether methylene glycol can legally be identical to formaldehyde. Anhydrous formaldehyde gas readily dissolves and reacts with water to form a methylene glycol equilibrium solution. When heated, the balance shifts and supports the production of formaldehyde and water. Thus, the manufacturers of the Brazilian Explosion argue that methylene glycol exists in their products, not formaldehyde, and therefore they can claim that their products are free of formaldehyde. The first involves nomenclature. The second problem is the method that measures the concentration of formaldehyde. The third involves measuring the concentration of formaldehyde in product bottles in which the reported concentration depends on the method of measurement and nomenclature. However, the company reached a settlement with the state of California and is no longer claiming their product is formaldehyde free.
Nomenclature
The Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS) lists formaldehyde (50-00-0) and methylene glycol (463-57-0) as two different substances. These compounds have two different chemical structures, present in two different chemical families and exhibit different physical properties. Formaldehyde is a colorless gas with HCHO chemical structure. Formaldehyde is a registered carcinogen. NTP notes methylene glycol as the main chemical form of formaldehyde in water. When heat is applied in the Brazilian explosion process causes methylene glycol to become dehydrated, producing formaldehyde gas and water vapor. According to Golden and Valentini even in the worst case experiments less than half of the methylene glycol yield in measured formaldehyde gas, also the unknown portion of this measurement is due to a combination of methylene glycol oxidized reported as formaldehyde gas, then the opposite reaction. much faster and far more favorable to the STP equilibrium not taken into account in the analysis. They argue that the chemical equality assumption is incorrect.
Concentration measurement method
The Brazilian Explosion Company (GIB LLC) has stated that Eastwood laboratories and government laboratories in California and Oregon perform unsuitable tests to determine formaldehyde concentrations, arguing that the NMR spectroscopy test is superior.
Inclusion of methylene glycol as formaldehyde in reported measurements
Some manufacturers of products containing formaldehyde and methylene glycol have complained that the test method for formaldehyde - which does not differentiate between formaldehyde and methylene glycol - is not an indicator of reliable product toxicity.
The American Chemistry Council issued a formal statement, where they stated as follows: "The content of formaldehyde - in the form of gas and water - should be taken into account when measuring the formaldehyde content of a product...... OSHA Federal correctly defines formaldehyde as' formaldehyde gas, the solution, and the material releasing formaldehyde. ' This comprehensive standard is the basis for protecting people who work with and around formaldehyde. "But the assumptions of chemical equality and toxicology between Formaldehyde (reactive gas) and methylene glycol (a stable reaction product formed in an aqueous solution that forms a major part of formalin preparation) disputed as a conservative assumption (mostly because of the method of testing that can not distinguish the form) rather than empirical toxicology data.
Conducting air quality monitoring tests to detect the level of formaldehyde gas in the air at the site of the application can provide an indication for the seriousness of salon workers and customer health problems (sometimes unconsciously) exposed.
Controversy over Oregon Safety and Health Advisory Division
In September 2010, the Center for Occupational and Environmental Toxicology Research (CROET) received complaints of difficulty breathing, nose bleeding and eye irritation from the stylist at one salon claiming to have used a hair treatment as directed. CROET, renamed Oregon Institute of Occupational Health Sciences in 2014, requested consultation assistance from Oregon's Occupational Safety and Health Division (OR-OSHA) to analyze chemically the hair straightening product. OSHA Oregon performs air sampling at the salon during the treatment of this product. Average exposures of 8 hours range from 0.006 parts per million (ppm) to 0.33, below the allowed exposure limit (PEL) of 0.75ppm. Short-term exposures range from 0.11ppm to 1.88ppm, well below the short-term exposure limit of 2.0ppm.
The HPLC test on this product batch from three different Oregon hair salons allegedly determined that there was a high level of formaldehyde. OSHA Oregon later expanded their warnings to include other flavoring products, especially those described as "keratin-based", and said employers should take steps to protect their workers, while relying on inappropriate testing and nomenclature methods.
One manufacturer responded by issuing a statement to Good Morning America where it accused Oregon Safety and Health Division of major omissions because OSHA violated the appropriate testing protocols using HPLC rather than using NMR Spectroscopy and used the incorrect nomenclature, cancel the findings. Then filed suit against Oregon OSHA. In the lawsuit, manufacturers state that their products, when used as directed, are well below the level of federally required (AL) measures, permissible exposure limits (LED), and short-term safety exposure (STEL) levels. They released their own material safety datasheets (MSDS), which have been debated by subsequent tests of their products by the FDA, Environmental Working Group, and OSHA.
Some products contain aldehydes and other derivatives which when heated to a temperature of 230 ° C are chemically converted to formaldehyde and other toxic compounds.
Health effects reported
Adverse events have reported the following injuries related to the Brazilian Explosion: eye disorders (irritation, increased lacrimation, blurred vision, hyperemia); nervous system disorders (headache, burning sensation, dizziness, syncope), and respiratory tract (dyspnea, cough, uncomfortable nose, epistaxis, wheezing, rhinorrhea, throat irritation, nasopharyngitis). Other reported symptoms include nausea, hypotricosis, chest pain, chest discomfort, vomiting, and rash.
Classroom action demands
Fraudulent advertising lawyer Girard Gibbs has filed a class action lawsuit alleging that Brazilian Blowout violates California law by advertising Brazilian Blowout hair straightening products as a safe and formaldehyde free product, when it has been found to contain large amounts of formaldehyde, as NTP defines "known as carcinogens human ". Other companies also filed a class action lawsuit against Brazilian Blowout care producers.
Studi lainnya
ChemRisk, LLC Study
In October 2011, the consulting firm ChemRisk, LLC published a study in the Journal of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene which also found that some hair products, including some formaldehyde-free labels, contain formaldehyde and can expose workers and customers for formaldehyde at levels above the OSHA short-term exposure limit (STEL). The ChemRisk test shows that Brazilian Blowout Acai Professional Smoothing Solution contains 11.5% formaldehyde, Global Keratin Juvexin Optimized Functional Keratin contains 8.3% formaldehyde, and Coppola Keratin Complex of Formula Blonde contains 3% formaldehyde. Of these, only Global Keratin lists formaldehyde on its label. However, the Global Keratin label indicates less than 4% formaldehyde, less than half of what is found in the product during the test. ChemRisk also tests the air while the stylist performs a treatment process simulation using each product. Formaldehyde was found in the air during the three simulations. During the simulation with the Brazilian Blowout Acai Professional Smoothing Solution, the formaldehyde level is above the OSHA STEL 15 minutes during drying.
AS. Food and Drug Administration Report
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) announced on October 8, 2010 that it "works with state and local organizations, as well as OSHA, to determine whether products or materials will likely cause health problems under the intended conditions of use. Product composition and labeling, instructions and any warning statements, will be a factor in this determination.One security issue that we will evaluate is whether formaldehyde can be released into the air once the product is applied to the hair and heated. "
On August 22, 2011, the FDA issued the first warning letter to this same manufacturer, telling the company to stop labeling its product as free formaldehyde, which is considered misleading, and declared that its products are "false" and "falsified".
Manufacturers responded with a ten-page letter to the FDA, challenging the FDA's assertion that the product is not contaminated because it does not contain formaldehyde, but methylene glycol, and that the FDA also relies on incorrect nomenclature methods. Therefore, the product is not misinterpreted as it is, in fact, free formaldehyde. However, the company voluntarily changed its label to remove claims that the product was free of formaldehyde, saying that "it is committed to ensuring that its products comply with all applicable legal and regulatory standards and seek to partner with the FDA to achieve these results".
References
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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