A kebaya is a combination of traditional clothes originating from the palace of the Kingdom of Majapahit Java, and traditionally worn by women in Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Brunei, southern Thailand, Cambodia and the southern part of the Philippines. A similar blouse is found in Burma, where it is called htaingmathein . Sometimes made of thin fabrics such as silk, thin cotton or semi-transparent nylon or polyester, embellished with brocade or embroidered floral patterns. Kebaya is usually worn with a sarong, or batik long cloth , or other traditional woven garments such as tie, songket with colorful motifs.
The kebaya is Indonesia's national costume, though more accurately endemic to Javanese, Sundanese and Balinese.
Video Kebaya
Etimologi
The word Kebaya is believed to be inspired by Arabian attire; the term '' kebaya '' may be derived from the Arabic word abaya , which means "clothing".
Maps Kebaya
History
The early form of Kebaya is believed to have originated from the palace of the 15th century Majapahit of Java, as a means of combining existing women, aristocratic body wraps, becomes simpler and more acceptable. During the last period of the Majapahit empire, the influence of Islam began to grow in the coastal cities of Java, so there was a need to adjust the Javanese style to the newly adopted Islam. Adjustable blouses, often made of fine, delicate fabrics, are worn over the body wrap to cover the backs, shoulders and arms, to make the women in court look simpler. The kingdoms of Aceh, Riau, and Johor and North Sumatra adopted Javanese style kebaya as a means of expression of social status with more delicate Javan kings or kings.
The name Kebaya as a certain type of clothing was recorded by the Portuguese when they landed in Indonesia. Kebaya is associated with the type of blouse worn by Indonesian women in the 15th or 16th centuries. Before 1600, kebaya on the island of Java were considered as garments reserved for use only by royal families, aristocrats and small nobles, in the era when the peasants and many women walk open - chest.
Later, kebaya was also adopted by ordinary people, women farmers in Java. To this day in rural agricultural villages in Java, women farmers still use simple kebaya, especially among elderly women. Everyday kebaya used by farmers is a simple material and secured with a simple pin or safety pin (pin).
Slowly naturally spread to neighboring areas through trade, diplomacy and social interaction to Malacca, Bali, Sumatra, Kalimantan, Sulawesi and the Sulu Sultanate and Mindanao. Javanese kebaya as it is known today was recorded by Stamford Raffles in 1817, as silk, brocade and velvet, with a central aperture blouse tied with a brooch, rather than buttons and buttonholes on top of a body wrap kemben , cloth - a wrapping cloth that is not stacked for several meters, misinterpreted in English (a sarong, a Malaysian accent: sarong ) sewn to form a tube.
After hundreds of years of regional acculturation, clothing has become a very local expression of ethnic culture, art and sewing traditions.
The earliest photographic evidence of a known kebaya today dates from 1857 Javanese, Peranakan, and Orientalist styles.
Costume component
Kebaya classical is the Javanese kebaya as it is known today is essentially unchanged as recorded by Raffles in 1817. It consists of a blouse (kebaya ) of cotton, silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with a central aperture blouse tied by the main brooch ( kerongsang ) in which the flap blouse meets, wearing a cloth . .
- Kebaya blouse
- Blouses are usually semi-transparent and traditionally worn over body wraps or kemben . Kebaya blouse can be adjusted tight or loose, made of various materials, from cotton or velvet, to fine silk, beautiful lace and brocade, desorated with seam or sequin shimmer. Today, the use of kebaya underwear is usually either a corset, bra or camisole with matching colors. The simpler, simpler underwear worn by ordinary village women, usually older women, is called credits , which are underwear like cotton bra.
- Kerongsang Brooch
- Traditional Kebaya does not have a button on the front. To secure the blouse opening in front, a decorative metal brooch was applied to the chest. It can be made of brass, iron, silver or gold, decorated with semi-precious stones. The typical three-piece crumpled consisted of a larger and heavier, worse mother's breast crap than the other two children's claws. Kerongsang is often made of gold jewelry and is considered a sign of the social status of aristocracy, wealth and nobility, but to ordinary people and peasant women, simple and plain kebaya is often simply tied with a simple pin (< i>).
- Sheath or skirt
- Cloth is a long outfit decorated around the hips, secured with a rope and worn as a sarong or skirt. Skirts or cloths are fabric wrappers that are not installed in about three meters. The term sheath is in false English, sarong (Malaysian accent: sarong) is actually sewn together to form a tube, cloth is unlocked, requiring a helper to dressed (literally wrapping) the wearer and held with a string (string), then fold the rope around the waist, then held with a belt ( belt or belt ), which may hold a decorative pocket. In Java, Bali and Sunda, usually batik fabrics are probably from cotton stamped plain for hand-painted silk with silk painted with gold thread. In Lampung, the fabric is a traditional tapis tapis , embroidery thread of gold thread with small mica. Sumatra, Flores, Lemata Timor, and other islands generally use ikat or songket cloths. Sumba is famous for its fabrics adorned with lau hada : shells and beads.
Kebaya element variant
- Collar
- In the aspect of collar or neck cut, there are two main varieties; collar V-shaped (Java, Kartini, Bali, and Encim or Peranakan) and square collar pieces (Kutubaru). Sundanese and modern kebaya have a brown-shaped brown U-shaped collar and are often decorated with sequins. Modern kebaya can also use various forms and curves of the collar.
- Fabrics
- In the fabric aspect, a blouse known as kebaya dress may have two main forms: a transparent or semi-transparent straight cut blouse from Java, Bali, or a simpler and simpler kebaya from Sumatra and Malaya.
- Cut and fitting
- In the cut aspect, the two main varieties are; Javanese, Balinese, and Sunda kebaya are more stringent, and a simple kebaya fitting worn by more virtuous Muslim women, usually wearing the hijab. The more compatible with Muslims, the simpler and more polite is the loose long sleeves used in Muslim areas, including the former Kingdom of Johor-Riau (now Malaysia). , Sumatra, Brunei, and parts of coastal Kalimantan and Java.
Variety
Kebaya Kartini
The type of kebaya used by aristocratic Javanese women, especially during the lifetime of Raden Ajeng Kartini, around the 19th century. Often the term "Javanese kebaya" is identical to Kartini's kebaya, although slightly different. Kebaya Kartini is usually made of fine cloth but not transparent, and white is the preferred color. Kebaya Kartini's basic may be plain. The jewelry is quite minimal, just a stitch or a rope along the edge. The V-shaped collar pieces of this type of kebaya are very similar to the Encimited Peranakan culture, but are distinguished by their distinctive creases on the chest. Another feature of Kartini's kebaya is the long kebaya that covers the hip, and the collar creases with a vertical line shape, which creates a tall and slim impression from the wearer. Kebaya-style Kartini inspires pieces and style of Garuda Indonesia flight attendant uniform.
Kebaya Jawa
This type of kebaya from Java has a simple shape with V-neck. This straight and simple piece gives the impression of a simple elegance. Usually Javanese kebaya is made of semi-transparent smooth cloth patterned with flower or embroidered stitches, sometimes decorated with sequins. Other fabrics may be used, including cotton, brocade, silk and velvet. A semi-transparent kebaya is worn over a matching pant, either a corset, a bra or a camisole.
Kebaya Kutubaru
The basic form of Kutubaru kebaya is very similar to other types of kebaya. What distinguishes it is an extra cloth called bef to connect the left and right sides of the kebaya in the chest and abdomen. This creates a square or rectangular collar. This type of kebaya is intended to create a display of unsafe kebaya wearing clothes that better suit the underwear. Kebaya Kutubaru is believed to come from Central Java. Usually to wear this type of kebaya, stencil (cloth wrapped around the abdomen), or a forced black corset with rubber worn under the kebaya, so the wearer will look slimmer.
Kebaya Bali
Bali Kebaya is very similar to Javanese kebaya, but slightly different. Bali Kebaya usually have a neckline V with folded collar sometimes decorated with straps. They are usually tight-fitting made with a semi-transparent or colorful fabric either cotton or brocade, patterned with a floral or embroidery stitch. Unlike traditional Javanese kebaya, Bali kebaya may add buttons at the front opening, and brooch brooch is rarely used. The main difference is that Bali's kebaya add obi-like sling to kebaya, wrapping the waist.
Kebaya Bali is part of traditional clothing, or customary clothing, Balinese women are required to wear kebaya during Balinese Hindu rituals and temple ceremonies. White kebaya is favored for Balinese religious rituals. In addition to religious ceremonies, contemporary Balinese women also often wear kebaya for their daily activities. Since most Balinese are Hindus, Balinese kebaya usually have short sleeves compared to Javanese kebaya.
Kebaya Sunda
The tight brocade of Kebaya Sunda allows more freedom in design, and is widely applied in modern kebaya and kebaya weddings in Indonesia. Semi-transparent fabrics are patterned with flower or embroidered stitches. The main difference with other kebaya styles is the neckline of the U neck, often applying a wide curve to cover the shoulders and chest. Another difference is the long section of an extra long kebaya, with a hanging edge covering the hips and thighs. The contemporary wedding kebaya dress has even swept the long train.
Kebaya Encim or Peranakan
In Java, the kebaya worn by Chinese ancestral ladies is called kebaya encim , derived from the name encim enci to refer to a married Chinese. woman. It is commonly worn by Chinese women in coastal cities of Java with significant Chinese settlements, such as Semarang, Lasem, Tuban, Surabaya, Pekalongan and Cirebon. This is different from Javanese kebaya with its smaller and smoother embroideries, lighter fabrics and lighter colors, made of imported materials such as silk and other fine fabrics. The encim kebaya match with brightly colored coastal batik cloth (Java coastal batik).
In Malacca, Malaysia, different kebayas are called "kebonya kebaya" and are used by Chinese descendants: Peranakan people. The Mrs. kebaya differs in very complicated hand beading shoes ( shoes manek) and the use of cloth with Chinese or imported or hand painted Chinese or imported Chinese silk. In addition to Malacca, mistress kebaya is also popular in other settlements in Penang and Singapore. Similar Mrs. Kebaya can also be found in Phuket, where they share a Peranakan culture similar to the historic Strait Settlement. Kebaya Indo
During the Dutch East Indies era in Indonesia, Indo (Eurasian) women as well as high-status European colonial women adopted kebaya, which provided less strict and cold clothing, as formal or social attire. The colonial women left their tight corsets and wore light, comfortable underwear under their kebaya. Indos and colonials probably adopted a kebaya inherited from the clothes worn by Njai, the indigenous woman who was kept as a housemaid, friend, and concubine in the colonial household. The Njai woman is an Indo ancestor (a mixture of European and Asian ancestors).
The pieces and style of kebaya worn by Dutch and Indo women actually come from Javanese kebaya. Nevertheless, there are some minor differences, European women wearing short sleeves and total long cotton in print, adorned with shoelaces that are often imported from Europe. The kebaya worn by colonial and Indo women is mostly white and has light fabrics, it is intended to provide cool and cool clothing in hot and humid tropical climates, because dark colored fabrics attract and retain heat.
Kebaya day Indo people are white cotton trimmed with handmade lace oriental motifs, either locally made in the East Indies, or imported from Bruges or the Netherlands. While black silk kebaya is used for evening wear.
Political meaning
In the Japanese internment camps during World War II, Indonesian female detainees refused to wear western dresses that allocated them and instead put on kebaya as a display of nationalist and racial solidarity to separate them from fellow Chinese, Eurasian and Eurasian. inmates.
The only woman present during the Proclamation of Indonesian Independence, an educated Dutch activist, Trimurti, dressed in kebaya, cemented her as nationalist women's clothing.
After Indonesian independence, Soekarno designated kebaya as a national costume of Indonesian women. Kebaya as a national costume of Indonesian women is often displayed by the first woman of Indonesia. Soekarno's wives, first president of Indonesia; Fatmawati Soekarno and Dewi Soekarno are known to wear kebaya everyday.
April 21 is celebrated in Indonesia as National Kartini Day where Raden Ajeng Kartini, female advocate and educational supporter, is remembered by students dressed in traditional dress according to their area. In Java, Bali and Sunda it is kebaya .
The social organization of bureaucrats of the Suharto era Dharma Wanita wearing a gold kebaya uniform, with a red sash ( scarf ) and a batik pattern on fabric i> unique to Dharma Wanita . The last lady of Indonesia and also a small nobleman Tien Suharto is a prominent advocate of kebaya .
Former President Megawati Soekarnoputri is a general of kebaya and wearing fine red kebaya whenever possible in public forums and the 2009 presidential election debate.
Modern usage and innovation
Kebaya has become one of the important parts of the oriental clothing style that greatly affects the modern fashion world. Lace dress is one of the best examples of Kebaya influences.
In addition to traditional kebaya, fashion designers look for ways to modify the design and make kebaya a more fashionable outfit. Custom designed kebaya can even be worn with jeans or skirts. For weddings or formal events, many designers explore other types of fine fabrics such as ropes to create a bridal kebaya.
Modern Kebaya now incorporates modern tailor innovations such as tongs, zippers and button zippers to be a very valuable addition for women who need a bathroom, without the need to actually be opened by a maid - as far as the original fabric is almost unanimously rejected. Other modern innovations include unlimited limited-wearing kebaya blouses, and night kebaya blouses worn with trousers or made of cloth usually for long cloths. The stewardess of Malaysia Airlines and Singapore Airlines also displayed batik kebaya as their uniform.
Garuda Indonesia flight attendant uniform is a more authentic modern interpretation. This kebaya is designed in a simple kebaya style of classic Kartini that comes from the nineteenth century kebaya of the Javanese nobility. Kebaya is made of fire-resistant polyester cotton cloth, with batik motif sheaths or gondosuli slopes, which also incorporate the garuda wing motif and small dots symbolizing jasmine.
Gallery
Media related to Kebaya on Wikimedia Commons
Media related to Tropenmuseum on Wikimedia Commons
See also
- Indonesian national costume
- Indonesian Culture
- Malaysian Culture
- Singapore Culture
- Htaingmathein
References
External links
- Indonesian Textiles
- Reading Kebaya
- Variety Indonesian Kebaya
Source of the article : Wikipedia
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